It took a long time for me to change that relationship to what it is now. I wasn’t trying to prove to anyone else that I could do it, that I was meant to be there I was proving it to myself. It wasn’t as fun as it was before because I knew the danger firsthand. I really wanted to conquer my fear, but I wasn’t in a comfortable headspace. After I had the accident, when I came back, I was very intimidated. When I first came here, I completely fell in love with the wave and the potential. She joins 'CBS Mornings' to discuss her new children's.
“But we had some bad moments in the past, tragic moments. Surfer Maya Gabeira holds the record for the biggest wave ever surfed by a woman. “Now, my relationship is good,” she said. It’s also where she nearly drowned in 2013. But she went further than simply facing her fears: seven years after almost. It’s where she broke not one, but two, Guinness World Records for the biggest wave ever surfed by a female. That Maya Gabeira ever thought of going anywhere near a big wave again after the episode in 2013 is already remarkable. Speaking of Nazaré, the book takes place there, and Gabeira has an interesting relationship with the town and its notorious wave. Photo: Damien Poullenot/WSL via Getty Images Just like the fictional Maya in the book, real-life Maya has a special relationship with Nazaré. So, there was a lot to overcome as a young teenager, just like Maya in the book.” I was very scared of the ocean growing up I had asthma, which has always been a thing for me.
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But a lot of it really relates to my real life – like, how I was introduced to surfing, how it was such a boy’s sport, how I had to find ways to learn how to surf. “For me, I related because I feel like I have a sort of second life here. “Maya in the book is born in Nazaré, which obviously I wasn’t,” she said. That, and her tumultuous love affair with surfing at Nazaré.
There’s a famous quote, often attributed to Mark Twain, that goes something like this: “Write what you know.” And for Gabeira, that was to write about her own experience as a woman coming up in the primarily male-dominated big-wave world. And I wanted to share that with the world.” And it helped that I was telling a story that I knew, because it was my story. It was more of an instinctual experience. The 35-year-old surfer was born in Río de Janeiro, Brazil. Aside from that, by no means was I passionate about writing, nor had I studied it or anything like that. Maya Gabeira el 18 de enero de 2018, cuando estableció el récord mundial de la ola más grande que ha surfeado una mujer. Big wave surfer who set a female record in 2009 by riding a 46-foot wave in South Africa. I’m a surfer, which is completely not his thing, but he inspired me. “My dad is a journalist and a writer,” said Gabeira. Turns out, Gabeira has no experience as a writer, per se, but she does have it in her blood.
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